Should I refinance? The monthly savings and the break-even point

A lower rate looks like an easy win — until the closing costs. See what refinancing saves you each month, how long it takes to recoup the costs, and whether it's worth it given how long you'll keep the loan.

$
%
%
months
$
Monthly savings$154.85
Total savings (after closing costs)$41,455.00
Break-even
33 months
Current payment
$1,735.18
New payment
$1,580.33

You recoup the closing costs in about 33 months. Worth it only if you keep the loan longer than that.

This compares both loans over the same 300 months left, so it isolates the rate. A real refinance often resets to a new term — a longer term lowers the payment more, but can raise the total interest you pay.

When rates drop, refinancing your mortgage to a lower one looks like free money: same loan, smaller payment. But a refinance isn’t free — it comes with closing costs, and those costs decide whether the lower rate actually helps. The real question isn’t “is the new rate lower?” It’s “do I stay long enough for the savings to pay back the costs?” This tool answers that.

How it works

It works out two payments on the balance you still owe: one at your current rate, one at the new rate, both over the months you have left. The difference is your monthly savings. Multiply that across the remaining term and subtract the closing costs, and you get the total savings — what refinancing is really worth.

Then the number that matters most: the break-even point — closing costs ÷ monthly savings, the month when the savings have repaid the costs and you start coming out ahead. As the Federal Reserve’s refinancing guide frames it, the whole decision turns on whether you’ll keep the home long enough to reach that point.

An example

Take the values already filled in: a $250,000 balance, currently at 6.8% with 300 months (25 years) left, refinanced to 5.8%, with $5,000 in closing costs. The payment drops from about $1,735 to $1,580 — roughly $155 a month. Over the full remaining term that’s about $41,500 saved after the costs, and you break even in about 33 months. So if you’ll stay put for three years or more, it pays; if you might move in two, the $5,000 isn’t worth it. Push the new rate closer to the old one and watch the savings shrink while the break-even stretches out — that’s the test a small rate cut has to pass.

The part that matters

A lower rate is necessary but not sufficient — the costs and your time horizon decide it. Three honest things:

Change the values above to match your own loan and a real quote, and let the break-even — not the rate alone — make the call. To see the full payment and total interest on either loan, use the mortgage payment calculator.

Frequently asked questions

What is the break-even point, and why does it matter most?

It's how many months of savings it takes to pay back the closing costs: closing costs ÷ monthly savings. The Federal Reserve's refinancing guide builds the whole decision around it. If you'll keep the loan (and the home) longer than the break-even, refinancing pays off; if you might move or refinance again before then, it can cost you money even at a lower rate.

Why does this keep the same number of months left?

To compare apples to apples. By running both the old and new loan over the same remaining term, the tool isolates the effect of the rate alone. A real refinance often resets the clock to a fresh 15- or 30-year term, which lowers the monthly payment more — but stretching the balance over more years can raise the total interest you pay, even at a lower rate. Keeping the term fixed keeps the comparison honest.

What counts as closing costs?

The upfront cost of getting the new loan: application and origination fees, appraisal, title, and similar charges. The Federal Reserve notes it's 'not unusual to pay 3 percent to 6 percent of your outstanding principal,' and the CFPB warns that 'no-closing-cost' offers just bury the cost in a higher rate or a bigger balance. Enter the real number — it's what the break-even depends on.